Sitting in the clutch of shops at the centre of breezy Freshwater, this white-brick, warm-hued Mexican bar and restaurant feels as quintessentially coastal as the waves washing the shoreline mere blocks away.

Plates are easy to like: tacos that offset slow-cooked pork with chicharron crunch and lime juice, say, or a tostada loaded with smoked barramundi and avocado crowned with orbs of scallop.

Order the confit mushrooms and the accompanying sauce is a fresh take on the moles more commonly found in Sydney – this one’s white, and humming with almonds, peach and pecans.

It would be remiss not to consider sipping something from the long list of tequila and mezcal, while a wobbly flan is as smooth and golden as the best of beach evenings. NB: Book ahead, even mid week – the locals (here, and at the Avalon outpost) are big fans.

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