It might have been a turbulent year for The Star, but its headline Japanese restaurant continues to be a reliable and refreshing experience. That’s down to executive chef Daniel Kwak’s commitment to pristine produce and the precision of the kitchen, with the sushi bar on full, fabulous display.

You could easily build a meal from there: say, barbecue freshwater eel nigiri from Taiwan, raw kingfish belly from WA and toro from Japan – all a great reminder how superior things can be beyond lunchtime grab-and-go sushi joints. But the menu is broad and deep.

Signature crisp rice nigiri and tuna is still a textural delight – a slice of raw fish draped over a cluster of crunchy, chewy grains – while the Brussels sprouts pack a salty, savoury punch thanks to roasted sesame dressing. There’s plenty of sake, cocktails and fancy champagne to up the luxe factor, too.

Good to know: Like some theatrics with your meal? Order the sushi platter and it comes with a dry-ice show.

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