Owned and operated by good mates Nick “Poodle” Giannopoulos and Stephen Mandis, Sippenham is a place of cushioned chairs and glowing lamps that bring an easy-going sophistication. The menu starts with a serious snack section led by the “Uncle Luke’s” fish sanger, its crustless white bread as soft as a doona. There are ribbons of iceberg lettuce, a lovely crumbed swordfish fillet and nicely strong taramasalata. Named after Mandis’ long-time fishing friend, you can spot Luke holding prize catches in framed photos on the dark green walls.

Always order the lasagne – a salubriously layered marvel marked by generous pieces of beef and made from a recipe handed down from Giannopoulos’ grandmother. Meanwhile, the malloreddus features chubby curls of pasta served with fleshy king prawns, roast cherry tomatoes, shellfish bisque and chives. Giannopoulos also has a way with meatballs – three lovely herby, orbs as big as the cricket ball held by Shane Warne in another framed photo – and served with melting parmigiano and a rich glug of Napoletana.

The small dining room has been regularly booked out, and you like a quiet restaurant, this might not be the best choice. But if you’re after somewhere fresh and inviting that buzzes with singular camaraderie, come on down.

Good to know: Sippenham is also strong on drinks for the area, and the ever-changing list is written with input from importer Lo-Fi Wines.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.