Forget the pared-back decor framing Sydney Harbour: the food takes the spotlight at Sala.

Impossibly light Basilicata-style bread with Pugliese olive oil (great guns with a negroni). A trend-setting half-crumpet, crisp at the edges, topped with creamy blue swimmer crab and crowned with oscietra caviar.

Shavings of raw beetroot, pickled queen garnet plum, pistachios and powdered beetroot are the perfect foil for Eden bluefin tuna belly crudo, while signature squid-ink tortellini with crabmeat, the recipe inspired by consultant chef Danny Russo’s grandmother, is lifted by cherry tomato and lemon-caper sauce. The menu is broad and deep, but seafood shines again in many-layered lasagne studded with WA yabby and finished with foamy bisque.

Flowing service, a class wine list suited to harbourside dining and a chocolate souffle tart with fior di latte gelato and a lavish grating of seasonal black truffle complete a memorable experience.

Good to know: Valet parking (cheaper than the public car parks) is available for $25. Advise on booking.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.