There’ll be a moment where you’ll wonder: should we get barbecue meat? Ordering the delicacies of the sea is a given here – the wall of tanks is filled with coral trout, snow crabs, rock lobster and more – but yes, the pork is worthy of your attention.

The char siu is cooked until juicy, served with a sticky honey glaze and nestled over fragrant peanuts so good you’ll want to order a side of more nuts. Joy seekers should add wok-fried fioretto cauliflower with crisped garlic and dried black beans, free-range chicken, lacquered duck, roast pigeon and late-night congee.

Your choices are only limited by the size of your group and wallet. If you do have the cash, look to the tanks, perhaps for gloriously sweet mud crab bathed in garlic butter; staff will keep a supply of hand towels coming your way.

Good to know: You can settle in for a cranking yum cha service, too.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.