The ground floor motorcycle workshop might suggest that the cafe-restaurant side of Rising Sun isn’t serious business. But over time the things on the plate here have proven to be as highly tuned as the bikes, and ramen is the drawcard.

Whether you pick a bowl of The Monk – made on a base of shiitake and kelp, with the likes of miso pumpkin and black fungus as toppings – or The Darkness – free-range chicken and smoked hocks in the soup, pork belly and charred onion on top – the flavours are clear and layered, the presentation artful.

Smart snacks, including charry snake beans with whipped tofu or pork belly to wrap up in nori, play support, as does a clipped local wine list. If the cake of the day is absent, like on our visit, there’s always Ciccone & Sons sorbet to keep you humming.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.