This breezy Mediterranean-inspired dining room might boast postcard views of Wategos Beach, but it’s all eyes inside when the “cornetto” hits the table – a cracking brik pastry cone concealing cultured dashi cream and cured egg yolk under pops of smoked salmon roe.

Chef Jason Saxby and Raes’ eternally hospitable team also command attention by drawing the best from Australian ingredients, such as an entree of “tuna, tuna, tuna” that’s all precision and detail, featuring perfect cubes of raw fish, tuna-bone soy, nashi compressed in vinegar and dashi emulsion plus native kosho dressing and Geraldton wax. Equally appealing is the golden bug pithivier, scored and decorated intricately and stuffed with shellfish mousse.

Gabby Fury’s wine list spotlights organic and biodynamic makers among international benchmarks, but then kicking things off with a mezcal and paprika-spiked Sangrita is always a refreshing way to start. To finish? How about a dip out the front?

Good to know: It’s no secret that Raes is one of Byron’s most luxe hotels, but what’s less advertised is its cellar bar, offering bar snacks, cocktails and ocean views midday till sunset.

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