Score a table on the balcony of this sharp CBD kitchen and you’ll be treated to front-row views of the Harbour Bridge, which are the backdrop for a menu of Cantonese dishes deployed with top-notch Australian ingredients.

Soupy xiao long bao are filled with sweet Darwin mud crab, while yum cha favourites get luxe upgrades: smoked quail eggs on the siu mai, duck in the spring rolls and wagyu in the juicy pan-fried beef dumplings.

Pebbles of salt and pepper baby abalone bring peppery wallop – though the salt plays a little coy – while cubes of spicy stir-fried wagyu tri-tip and potato radiate enough heat to warm the entire balcony in the colder months.

The service is attentive, cocktails are confident, and the wine cellar is well managed, all reinforcing Pearl’s knack for making the familiar feel a little special.

Good to know: Outdoor seats can get icy in the colder months, so bring a coat.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.