Hidden in plain sight on Glebe Point Road, No 92 captures the epitome of modern Australian cuisine – not Mod Oz, but how our culinary culture has evolved.

Chef Galia Valadez taps into her Mexican roots with input from Italy, Japan, India and, of course, Australia. Think Abrolhos Islands scallops served on the half shell in lemony brown butter capped with curry leaves, or king prawn tacos with a bright carrot and cascabel chilli sauce.

Buttery roti is served to swipe through a ring of pepitos and peppers surrounding rich amarillito mole: one swipe brings a spicy, nutty kick, the next is reminiscent of a chocolate croissant thanks to a hit of cacao.

There’s pasta with poblano peppers, barramundi with bacon dashi, but the small plates linger on the palate. That, and the neighbourhood spirit, with so many ways to enjoy it, from Friday lunch, to bottomless brunch to all manner of events.

Must-order dish: Amarillito mole dip with buttery roti.

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