Now here’s a beaut little all-rounder for any occasion. A block back from the ocean, in the centre of Caba’s main shopping hub, this Italian-ish local is just as popular with families (kids love the butter and parmesan pasta) as it is with couples in the zone for sundowners and a salumi plate. (A snapper fish finger sandwich on pillowy white bread satisfies all ages.)

Kingfish carpaccio is nicely ratcheted up with a hot-mustard dressing, and chewy nubs of cavatelli are the canvas for a not-too-heavy pork sausage ragu.

Meanwhile, owner Rachel Duffy (former general manager of Icebergs Dining Room & Bar) has compiled a short, crowd-pleasing wine list, whether you’re keen for a fun-time chardonnay or a beefier red for the bloody good rib-eye on the bone, rich with herb and anchovy butter. A Sbagliato feels like the right finishing move – at No. 35, the holiday vibes are strong.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.