Medan Ciak, specialising in the Malay-influenced cuisine of Medan, has been through several iterations since launching in 2016, undergoing two moves – first to Liverpool Street, then Sussex Street – then more recently opening a second outpost in Mascot.

These days, the surrounds are swisher, and with so much clamour for banana-leaf-wrapped nasi bungkus online, the nasi kapau has become the headline, regularly drawing queues and packing tables. Order a parcel, and fragrant rice, jackfruit curry, long-simmered cassava leaves and sambal come standard, along with a crisp-fried boiled egg – but which path to walk with the rest?

Ayam bakar equals sticky grilled chicken on the bone, rendang means richness and complexity, but there’s plenty more in between. The Medan char kwai teow is all kinds of smoky, with sweet prawns and heat from accompanying chilli sambal, and the desserts counter offers plenty to take home. Just enough to help you hold out until the next visit.

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