The Malay Chinese restaurants serve the most famous laksa in Sydney and have been doing so for decades. Of the three newer outposts, this Circular Quay stall is the closest in vibe and sheer efficiency to the Hunter Street institution (RIP).

While the red chairs, free mandarins and the ever-present uncle are gone, and with them a lot of the restaurant’s charm, the main drawcard remains as rich and bold as ever, as does the smoky shrimp-enriched sambal – neither recipe has changed in 38 years.

It’s why, despite the quality of the wok hei on the char kway teow and the umami-intensity of the har mee (Tuesday and Friday only), 80 per cent of orders are still for laksa. To get one you’ll need to brave a line, but know it’s just 20 minutes from the start to your first slurp.

Good to know: Ask for extra sambal if you want it spicy.

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