Laggan is a sweet little town, and its “pantry”, complete with an onsite cottage for visitors and brewery, is a highly personal place to stop. Surrounded by greenery, including herb and vegetable gardens, it’s a platform for all things local.

Host Sally Emerton and chef Evan Marler grow as much as they can, then present it with care. Beautiful basil and seasonal tomatoes, perhaps in a lovely soup starter. Or light, sesame-dressed daikon and radish alongside a pastry wrapped parcel of southern tuna.

Braised cabbage and a great parsnip puree pair with fall-apart duck-leg meat, sprinkled skin “soil” a nice touch on top. Meanwhile, teensy mushrooms sprout on semolina gnocchi with a rosemary scented ragu. Laggan brewed beer and house-baked bread add to the country charm.

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