Walk through the glowing, oak-lined dining room at Kuro and seams of gold snake their way beneath your feet, filling the cracks in the floor. It’s a nod to the Japanese art of kintsugi used to repair broken pottery, but if kintsugi is about celebrating beauty in imperfection, here it’s more representative of a desire to bridge two worlds by interpreting Japanese tradition for a Sydney audience.

That might mean premium cuts of Blackmore full-blood wagyu, the centre an intense blush, with black garlic and Jerusalem artichoke. Or bluefin tuna crumbed, fried and sliced to reveal ruby-red flesh, with shredded shiso and horseradish – part-way between katsu, part-way between pub schnitzel, but reaching for a higher plane.

Speaking of, the chef’s table pushes higher still, as does the bar, where bonito-infused tequila and umeshu make their way into cocktails. Talk about gold dust.

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