Escape the energy of Potts Point’s Llankelly Place to Kisuke and you’ll enter a compact six-seat diner featuring chef Yusuke Morita’s 18-course omakase.

Remember the first rule of omakase: don’t be late. His experience in the kitchen is clearly evident as he glides from course to course. Paradise prawns, chicken, mushrooms and spinach are seamlessly married with a lightly smoky bonito soup. Then slices of bonito are seared and brushed with soy sauce, with hot yellow mustard served instead of wasabi. Full-blood wagyu (chuck tail flap) is marinated with miso, seared and sliced, then topped with Hokkaido sea urchin.

The nigiri sushi courses come thick and fast, and Morita’s style is liberal with wasabi without being overpowering. Three types of tuna, including the revered fatty otoro (tuna belly), are stand-out pieces. Meanwhile, Morita-san’s wife, Izumi, runs the floor in traditional dress, with a tight wine and sake list.

Good to know: Bookings are only accepted in parties of two, four or six.

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