The “On Air” sign means the DJ is in residence, the tables scattered under a galaxy of moon-like orbs are rammed, and every so often a rush of flames from the woks throws light onto glazed tiles and walls in blushing shades of orange.

Island Radio is nothing if not a sensory experience, and while it can be hard to pin it down – the menu island hops between Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines across 50 dishes – chef Andrianto Wirya does an exceptional job weaving the threads together.

A crisp, exploded duck lumpia, the Filipino spring roll, draws on Chinese influence, for example. But Wirya also takes liberties: there’s charred grapefruit on tamarind-bright tuna crudo, brown-butter crumb on garlic fried rice, kombu-rich sambal with grilled turmeric-brined chicken.

Add tropical cocktails, flexible banquets and a noodle bar, and there really is something for everyone. Time to tune in.

Good to know: A $52.50 set menu of Island favourites offers serious value.

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