Fiery, fragrant, fresh and textural, eating at Hai Au Lang Nuong engages the senses in ways few restaurants manage. But the most remarkable aspect of this street-food specialist isn’t the cooking, it’s the space, and its ever-present owner, Ben Nguyen, who over a quarter of a century has poured in every ounce of his personality into the corner site.

Among the chaos of wall-to-wall paraphernalia, the food is an anchor. Organic chicken, say, grilled in banana leaves then served with sticky rice. Bo la lop nuong than, a platter of minced beef wrapped in betel leaves and grilled, is one of many tactile dishes, the table set with rice paper wrappers, vermicelli and herbs.

Inside or out, families and friends flood the tables and the footpath, clinking Coronas, loading tables with pipis, swishing silver perch through sweet-sour soup. Join them, and it’s for one of Sydney’s most singular experiences, with more to uncover every visit.

Best for: Fiery and fresh Vietnamese street food, grilled over mangrove charcoal.

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