It’s not often you find yourself biting into a snack, in this case a version of Malaysian murtabak consisting of roti stuffed with kangaroo rendang and cucumber yoghurt, and turning to the stranger beside you to gush about how great it is.

Maybe you’re caught up in the chatty atmosphere. Perhaps it’s because you’ve scored a bar seat that puts you in direct range of the staff ’s banter. Or maybe it’s just because the “murtabak” – flaky and deeply savoury – is outstanding. What is certain is that scoring a seat at Gwylo (seldom easy at peak times) feels like being invited to a welcoming dinner party.

A pile of crispy, coconutty Thai-style chicken keeps the good times going, as does a charry, sticky vegan char kwai teow rightly scorched by the wok. Order another fruit-driven cocktail and “cheers” your neighbour. Everyone’s friends here now.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.