Is there a fancier lighting set-up in a restaurant in Sydney? Unlikely. At night, the LED ceiling installation shifts from magenta to blue to green, as if channelling the neon energy of Tokyo.

If only North Sydney was as pumping as Shinjuku. Chi Ung Kim, who brings experience from time at Cho Cho San and Sake The Rocks, has taken over as head chef, and his bento boxes have added excitement to lunchtimes for the suburb’s salary workers: crunchy karaage or nigiri and sushi, okonomiyaki or miso salmon served with the usual sides. Add a non-alc rozumari furutsu cocktail with “gin”, basil, passionfruit and yuzu for a zesty, refreshing time.

At night, the menu expands to the likes of scampi grilled on the robata served with Japanese curry, and wagyu striploin with mustard cream. And if raw fish is your thing, all of Genzo’s top-notch raw seafood is available as nigiri or sashimi.

Good to know: Tuesday to Saturday happy hour means skewers of chicken breast, wing or tsukune for $6, plus 500 ml Kirins for just $8.50.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.