While the street-level portion of the Cricketers Arms stays true to the spirit of the 180-year-old pub, climb the stairs and walls painted deep-burgundy give the dining room a cosy Gallic charm. Chef Wesley Cooper Jones matches it with his reverence for classics, but his style is better described as “French-ish” than straight-up traditional.

Oysters might come with retro melon balls and a melon daiquiri vinaigrette, while a zesty gazpacho cuts through the richness of a mousse-like prawn terrine. There’s deftness and generosity to the cooking, seen in a pan-fried skate wing grenobloise with sweet flesh that almost glides off the cartilage, coated in nut-brown butter and plenty of gordal olives and capers.

Overall, the Crix is a casual joint, but dishes such as neatly trimmed leeks vinaigrette, or a perfectly executed lemon tart, bring finesse. One final dilemma? Whether to ride on through with a nightcap upstairs, or settle back into the pub.

Best for: A superior bistro meal before settling in with a schooner.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.