Carlotta is Melbourne’s Lucas Restaurants group’s first Canberra venture, and it has pulled out all the stops, sending talented executive chef Mark Glenn to oversee the launch. Formerly of Cumulus Inc. and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in Melbourne, he’s been in Canberra before (at Pialligo Estate), and knows the territory.

It’s a little Melbourne, but at its heart it’s an Italian tratt, with wood-fired oven, open grill and a list of house-made pasta. Across pillowy focaccia, stracciatella with broad beans, and wood-grilled buttermilk-brined chicken with garlic, lemon and anchovy, the palate is punchy, bright and lemony. Crab spaghettini with lobster oil and chilli has molto umami. Tiramisu is dense and boozy (although the chocolate-cherry trifle is the pick).

And the room is Lucas lovely, with a glamorous marble bar, wine cellar and half-curtains along the windows. It may be a ring-in, but it sure has Canberra talking – and eating – it up.

Good to know: Go large with Super Tuscans by the glass, or hit aperitivo hour (until 6pm daily) for $15 spritzes and $9.50 snacks.

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