The long dining room, with its peacock blue accents, bentwood chairs and mirrored walls is dominated by a bar and open kitchen. If you came in cold, you’d be forgiven for assuming a menu of French onion soup and duck confit. Rather, there’s chef Pasi Petanen’s soft rye taco, filled with thinly sliced ox tongue, chargrilled till the meat is almost candied around the edges, and finished with chopped egg and a sauerkraut.

Drawn black pepper butter glosses sweet, juicy Skull Island prawns; a delicate Abrolhos Island scallop, nestled in thin layers of pressed potato, is fried until golden then spritzed in salt and vinegar. Petanen’s cooking is as all about deep savour and great length of flavour when you want it, and lightness when it’s needed. The signature dessert embodies that, starting with a base of licorice cake, then carrot sorbet, all hidden under a blanket of aerated yoghurt.

Good to know: It’s a perpetually busy place, and although no one’s rushing you, there’s a certain rigour to the service all the same.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.