Where to start at this dapper bistro, all dressed in French oak, mosaic tiles and linen curtains? How about with a Chablis at the 13-metre zinc bar overlooking the open kitchen? Before moving to a lamp-lit table or a copper-lined booth to smear luscious doorstopper-sized chicken liver parfait onto crisp golden brioche?

Next, a wonderfully cheesy comte, gruyere and camembert souffle, or just skip straight to the steak frites topped with a great splodge of herby Cafe de Paris, the fries served in a side bowl and full of crunch.

Cavolo nero salad with fat slivers of cabbage, currants and walnuts is properly dressed, although a snapper fillet topping parsnip puree would have benefited from less time on the heat.

Finish with a warm chocolate tart, ice-cream and rum-soaked raisins, and don’t skip madeleines excellent lemon curd.

Good to know: The Sunday-only roast of pasture-fed whole chicken with champagne jus is great value for two to share.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.