In the ’90s, Cambodian food had few flag-bearers in Sydney – then Battambang arrived. Founded by siblings Soc Kieng Hua and Khieng Hua Kouch, it brought homestyle Khmer cooking to Cabramatta, quietly building a following that still fills its dining room three decades on.

Inside, the energy is infectious: staff banter with regulars, families eagerly pass bowls across tables and newcomers’ eyes widen as they bite into the signature crispy chicken, golden and slick with tangy, sweet soy. Delicate Phnom Penh noodles remain a go-to, but the turmeric-laced lemongrass soup – loaded with vermicelli, water spinach and tender beef – deserves equal attention.

Open from 7am, Battambang also doubles as a breakfast institution: try the fluffy omelette with salted dried fish and pork mince, served alongside an aromatic, collagen-rich beef broth. You won’t get through the sprawling menu in one go, but that’s just one more reason to come back.

Good to know: Battambang is so adored that there are two of them, with Battambang Restaurant II living just on the other side of the station off John Street.

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