It may not be the first to do it but this “friendly neighbourhood wine bar”, situated on a Surry Hills corner that’s become ground-zero for natural wines and share plates, is era-defining.

Seasonally rotating dishes keep the crowd coming just as much as mainstays, like crisp pig’s-head fritti topped with petals of pickles, set to swipe through gribiche with a glass of something from co-owner Morgan McGlone’s collection, preferably al fresco in the dappled sun. Or hunker down inside to explore the rest: raw tuna with depth and zing from shiitake-soy dressing, or smooth-talking creme caramel spiked with amaro.

Inspiration also comes from our own shores, and the humble potato scallop is given a makeover with wafer-thin, bubbly batter. Dining in a group (book ahead) will unlock a long, lovingly managed list of rare bottles to try, with enthusiastic staff to guide you.

Must-order dish: Pig’s-head fritti with sauce gribiche.

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