It might only be a stroll from Manly beach, but Banco – a tiny space with a lived-in feel and a slim stretch of kitchen featuring a char-grill and charcoal ovens – draws inspiration from fire rather than the ocean. But even if the heat source is elemental, the cooking is all finesse.

A plate of pork neck, equal parts charred and tender, shows a deft touch with that grill, mustard dressing adding zing. Same goes for the octopus on a swirl of lemongrass sauce, the flesh smoky and yielding.

Small plates range from a harissa-spiked chicken skewer strewn with marigold to a bright, neatly presented mini passionfruit pavlova.

Service is keen and knowledgeable, primed to lead you through a drinks list that eschews cliches for carbonated negronis, mini-martinis dotted with shiso oil and ethically produced wine.

The once-secret lobster roll may now be a menu staple, but there’s still plenty left to discover here.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.