Soon to enter its fourth decade of service, Azuma has had several resets over the years, including relocating to the former Continental Deli CBD site in early 2024, transplanting its familiar wash of dark-tinted interiors and Japanese art. But the old-school food ethos hasn’t wavered. The wine and sake list is broad, and an $88 four-course lunch bento is catnip for corporates.

While the evening a la carte offerings lean safe – verging on too safe – dishes such as meltingly tender braised pork belly and springy soba noodle soup with crisp tempura king prawn and vegetables feel comforting and nicely honed. The nigiri is a highlight, and the high-demand $300-a-head omakase menu by chef Takashi Sano, limited to seven diners a night, is one of Sydney’s great sushi counters.

Must order: The nine-piece nigiri special.

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