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14/20Critics' Pick

Austrian Club

The Austrian Club is an Austrian country-style clubhouse.
1 / 6The Austrian Club is an Austrian country-style clubhouse. Jennifer Soo
Apfelstrudel.
2 / 6Apfelstrudel. Jennifer Soo
Leberknödelsuppe (liver dumpling soup).
3 / 6Leberknödelsuppe (liver dumpling soup).Jennifer Soo
Basket of pretzels.
4 / 6Basket of pretzels. Jennifer Soo
Vienna pork schnitzel.
5 / 6Vienna pork schnitzel.Jennifer Soo
The dining room.
6 / 6The dining room. Jennifer Soo
14/20Critics' Pick

Austrian Club Sydney

European$

Raucously cosy, order-at-the-counter dining.

For the past 45 years, this community hall-style venue has been a place of jaegerschnitzels, live music and cherry schnapps, plus an excellent apple strudel with an unhealthy amount of cream. And yes, you absolutely should order a Vienna-style pork schnitzel, which is much juicier than its pounded, wrinkled shape suggests. It comes with deliciously tangy potato salad – proudly mayonnaise-free – although you may want a boat of the fork-sticking gravy too.

The same seven-hour-simmered gravy coats two pan-sizzled Thuringer bratwurst snags on the sausage plate, a barnstorming medley of red cabbage, fat and deeply golden spuds (they know their way around a potato here). Before all this lunch intensity rivalling Christmas Day, we can also recommend the beef broth and liver dumpling soup, also known as leberknodelsuppe and terrific with a dark Bavarian lager.

The vibe is infectious and after three weissbiers and a light polka, non-Austrians may start to feel patriotic about a country they have zero ties to. There’s probably a word to describe this sensation in German.

Good to know: Outdoor tables are popular with bushwalkers seeking cold steins after a Grade Three hike.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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