Tasting menus can be a serious commitment. But what if there was a condensed version – five courses, with the option of adding a few more if you like – that had you in and out in under two hours, didn’t relieve you of a week’s pay but still left you feeling like you’d enjoyed something a teensy bit special?

Meet Arthur. Its menu, which has a tendency to build native ingredients into well-crafted dishes, includes some delightful moments, such as a nicely crisped mackerel belly in a clean, pure mushroom and mussel broth, or a hearty saddle of lamb served with fancified Sunday lunch trimmings.

The odd dish can be overwrought (a beautiful piece of Ulladulla tuna is overloaded with what feels like a dozen components), but the service is friendly, the corner site has vintage charm, the wines are all Australian and the value is undeniable. How refreshing.

Good to know: The menu can be adjusted for all dietary restrictions with prior notice.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.