A melee of CBD types rolls into Alfie’s as soon as the workday ends – wait, scrap that, they’re often here during work too, taking advantage of Alfie’s promise to have its single main (barring a special; pray it’s porchetta) on the table in 15 minutes flat.

The dish? 220 grams of crusted Riverine sirloin, cooked medium-rare, plated with a green knoll of garlicky spinach, mustard and horseradish sauce. It’s complemented by a lively dining room and charcoal terrazzo bar, plus a carte of affordable sides.

Hot chips with curry sauce are fun, if only they were hotter and saltier, but crisp Brussels sprouts kissed with sherry vinegar hit the mark. Meanwhile, martinis come piercingly cold, a DJ and street-art keep the vibes high, and bookings are capped at 90 minutes, just enough time to sneak in a stick of Ciccone & Sons burnt honey and beef fat gelato to finish.

Good to know: The bar has its own short menu, with a rotisserie beef hot chip butty the headline act, and time limit for bookings.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.