What if a veteran chef, with experience in some of the world’s better kitchens, took over a regional butcher shop and started dealing in sustainably reared, grass-fed, rare-breed animals? If they started supplying top restaurants, making their own charcuterie and going in to bat for local producers?

We don’t have to wonder, thanks to Michael Robinson, who made it come true in Branxton back in 2016. We also don’t have to wonder what it’d look like if he started selling burgers next door. Just roll up Monday to Saturday: the grill is firing and the queue is forming.

They’re here for $12 dry-aged cheeseburgers on soft, sweet potato buns, or specials that might start at porchetta rolls and extend to house-made smoked pork, jalapeno and cheddar snags loaded with pickles, fried onions and dog sauce. Thought the Hunter was all fine-dining? HMC would like a word.

Best for: A night in or a night out, when you’re done with all the vineyards and tasting menus.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.