When presented with a long foil-wrapped cylinder concealing what many declare is Melbourne’s best adana wrap, seasoned visitors know to rip open the foil, stat, to preserve the bread’s crisp shell. It crackles with each bite yet somehow maintains a feathery inner layer.

The meat itself is speckled with jaunty red flecks of capsicum. Plates of grilled meat come with crunchy salad heavy on chopped parsley, plus one of five dips that span hummus to carrot with yoghurt. Kiymali pide – a thin lamb flatbread that’s more like lahmacun – is lifted by yet more parsley, while boat-shaped pide cradling egg and the spiced sausage sucuk has a gentle thrum of cumin and sesame seeds.

Men gesticulate as they chat and wait for takeaway, staff haul enormous trays of meat skewers from kitchen to grill, and the precious few booths continuously fill and empty.

Must-order: Adana wrap or adana plate. Adding grilled tomato is non-negotiable.

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