See that 1.5 tonne floating dragon suspended from the ceiling? You’re in the right place. Animated clouds fly across the ceiling of this grand double-height hall, a high-energy alternate reality. Don’t deliberate on your soup bases; whip-cracking staff want you to order quickly to maximise cooking time (for lip-numbing fire, go the signature Sichuan).

Kidneys and gizzards come neatly arranged in an organ-filled treasure chest and mashed prawn is wrapped in veil-like bamboo fungus, ready to be dunked. While your beef tripe bubbles in the collagen-rich fish maw, scoot to the buffet and build your own dipping sauce.

Fast-paced and intense, Panda is not where you come for a relaxing meal – but the fun factor is high. Hit up the self-serve soft-serve and brace yourself – leaving this simmering fever dream and returning to the real world is a jolt.

Good to know: Keep an eye on their Instagram – monthly promos might just score you a freebie.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.