The list of must-visit Brunswick Heads restaurants seems to be ever-growing, but this pop-up turned kind-of permanent restaurant should be at the top. As the name suggests it serves sake – great sake – but James Fury’s cocktail and wine list is equally solid, and he can guide you towards things that pair with the savoury-leaning food.

Say yes to the not-too-rich ramen served with house-made rye noodles, but keep to the small size if you’re keen to try chef Daiki Shiget’s snacks: things cooked over charcoal, say, like skewers of fat shiitake brushed with aged tare or chicken thigh given a pep with yuzu-pepper paste.

While the kitchen is about precision, the service is relaxed and everyone’s chatty. Make sure you finish with the house-made seasonal sorbet: if the vibrant passionfruit version is anything to go by, it’s a cracker.

Must-order dish: The hibachi-grilled squid, which comes in a punchy brown butter and fermented chilli sauce. Bliss.

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