Judging by the flocks of locals loading up with Ciro’s takeaway boxes, Thirroul residents are quite aware their town has some of the best pizza in the state. The base is thin, blistered and subtly sour, and you can also have it in flatbread form to run through stracciatella with pistachio vinaigrette, or whipped ricotta underneath charred butternut pumpkin.

A pizzeria is only as good as its margherita, of course, and this one has the ideal balance of San Marzano tomato sweetness and creamy dollops of fior di latte. The white-sauced pizzas are just as good, including the garlicky, earthy “Shroom” number, which goes great guns with a house orange wine made by co-owner Joel Mucci’s label Benson and Mooch.

House-made limoncello also feels essential, and if you’re in the market for something more protein-heavy, ask about the wood-fired rice with confit chicken.

Good to know: On Mondays, only pizzas are available, but all of them are $20.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.