One of the great mysteries of Fitzroy North is how the ultra minimalist kitchen at Public Wine Shop can punch out such dazzling dishes. Case in point: the pan-continental brilliance of cavatelli pasta and butter-poached crab in umami-amped mushroom XO. Or crisp heirloom radish jazzed up with salty lobes of chorizo in a luscious bed of smoked garlic yoghurt.

Just add a hunk of sourdough from nearby Loafer Bread and declare happy days. Whatever the season, good things to eat are assured at this heritage shop where the walls are lined with a broad church of natural, organic and biodynamic wines, and a communal table spanning the length of the room brings the buzz.

It’s certainly an option to drink and dash but the gravitational pull of chatty staff, retro tunes on the turntable and golden-skinned, bread-stuffed chicken wings might keep you anchored in place.

Good to know: It doubles as a bottle shop, so browse the shelves for something to take home.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.