This rascally East Asian diner never stops to take a breath. Whether it’s Monday or Saturday, crowds are shoulder to shoulder at bar seats and booths. They’re lured by those neon-red cherry-shaped eyes in the window, which have become visual shorthand for “deliciousness this way”.

Waitstaff zip around delivering faultless service and two-bite youtiao, the airy doughnut topped with glossy beef tartare. It’s a sensational snack, made better by a cold beer or sake from the wide-ranging list. Chilled buckwheat soba noodles are graced with five supple slices of seared tuna and coated in smoked bonito dressing.

Thick slices of striploin sit upright like dominoes in a black bean sauce with the consistency of syrup - a most sophisticated take on the Aussie Chinese fave. And baked custard served in a hot skillet hides rhubarb roasted in umeshu, the plum wine’s sweetness offset by a ginger caramel. Hungry Melburnians, unite.

Must-order dish: The lobster roll has more longevity than a Labubu bag charm.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.