The Milton Hotel isn’t your standard pub fare, and the fish fingers are your first clue. The dish is more fine-dining than fry-up – creamy tuna encased within a perfect golden crumb, decorated with three dollops of miso bonito mayonnaise and delicate blades of kelp. It’s best enjoyed on the terrace with the house rosé, or a schooner from adjoining brewery Dangerous Ales.

Let the kids loose on the playground, take in the farmland views, and within moments that friendly man in shorts will reappear with ridiculously good flatbread – perfect hydration, freckled with char, but a mere vessel for herbaceous pools of smoked mussel butter.

What follows is simple but special: dry-aged pork chop, tender beneath caramelised miso glaze; gai lan, gently charred with whipped tofu and fermented chilli sauces; and refreshing mandarin semifreddo, layered with granita and sponge.

Good to know: There’s great value accommodation directly above the pub.

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