The younger city sibling of suburban diner Pilot, Such and Such is as playful and whimsical as its name suggests. The late mid-century decor is quirky, the playlist stacked with 80s pop, and the service gregarious. Malcolm Hanslow’s cooking is serious enough for a date night and sufficiently relaxed for walk-ins seeking pre-theatre snacking.

Nostalgia meets modern technique in a jammy and unctuous hashbrown “prawn toast”, cut with a side-dish of ginger-shallot. A “pasta and friends” section transcends geography with selections spanning orecchiette with cime di rapa to Tibetan chicken dumplings with smoked tomato chutney.

Mains rely more on classic European influences – salsa verde butter enriching some gently grilled flathead. Meanwhile, last year’s Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year, Caitlin Baker, can go toe-to-toe with the best winesplaining boomers, her knowledge ranging from Jura terroir to Burgundian barn ales.

Good to know: Happy hour is so happy that snacks and drinks are on from 3pm to 5pm and from 8.30pm to 10.30pm Tuesday to Saturday.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.