There’s always at least one surprise when you visit Poly, the wine-bar from Mat Lindsay, the chef behind Ester (Get it: Poly and Ester?).

It could be how the food is plated, the creative mix of ingredients, or simply how the signature fried potato dredged with cured egg yolk and chives is as ridiculously delicious as you remember – it’s the hashbrown of your dreams, crisp yet soft and perfectly salty.

Larger dishes range from fall-apart lamb ribs enlivened with orange, or baked-rice spiked with Sichuan pepper – both cooked over fire. The menu is always changing, but it’s always put together with drinks in mind, which range from elegant martinis, to sake, to wine with a natural edge, meaning there’s plenty to inspire a pairing.

Pick the almost comically tall cheeseburger topped with a giant onion ring, and ask Julien Dromgool or another informed waiter for guidance.

Best for: Well-made cocktails, interesting wines, creative snacks or a full-blown dinner.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.