Come lunchtime on Victoria Avenue, office workers and other devotees descend upon this stall in the Lemon Grove Shopping Centre. They’re here for their fix of braised pork hock with a dark, sticky, aromatic sauce that clings to rice – comforting, generous and deeply satisfying.

After a stint in fine-dining, including at Aria, chef Omar Hsu started cooking the food of his youth during COVID, before launching an outpost in Ultimo, followed by Redfern, Broadway and now this unassuming Chatswood mall. The specialty? Taiwanese staples, served over rice. Don’t miss the three-cup chicken, a jumble of fried thigh enriched with soy, rice wine and fragrant sesame.

Or for variety, try the triple-combo don, a medley of braised pork, prawn roll and sausage. Or turn your bowl into a set for the full experience, with sides like signature golden kimchi, umami-packed seaweed-butter corn or a Japanese-ish mayo-enriched potato salad with soft egg.

Good to know: Explore the range of pre-made meals, kits and condiments, including Hsu’s famed golden kimchi.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.