The menu spans nine tightly packed pages, but a quick glance around confirms everyone is here for one thing: bouncy wontons, plump with both minced and chunky prawn, with chewy egg noodles in a delicate yet concentrated chicken broth. At $17, it’s a steal – and a meal in itself.

The same broth is used to cook the support act, a half chicken poached and served off the bone. Each chopstickful is destined to be dredged in a salty, garlic-laced oil. It’s the epitome of less is more, and a strong contender for Melbourne’s juiciest chook – you can hardly tell the difference between the dark and white meat.

Vinh Ky is a casual-looking spot, but staff are alert to everyone’s needs. The number of spring rolls is adjusted to the number of diners, and everyone receives their own ramekin of secret-recipe chilli oil.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.