Tucked in a quaint courtyard in arguably the most cosmopolitan pocket of Geelong, Tulip leans into its locale with polished concrete floors, bare timber tables and exposed brick. The salty twang of miso boosts a snack of chicken liver pâté and, later, butterscotch sauce drenching a new-wave bread and butter pudding.

Owner-manager Dan Ford glides between tables, sharing recommendations from a considered wine list and offering designated drivers half-pours. Oysters reach great heights when dressed with burnt apple reduction and tiny cubes of jelly made with celery and repurposed celeriac tops.

Cacio e pepe’s cheesy charms find depth in kombu, and the jammy richness of pressed lamb belly is balanced by a bittersweet honey glaze and curls of radicchio. A commitment to waste-conscious cooking and local sourcing add extra clout to this reliable player of Bellarine dining.

Must-order dish: Bread and butter “pudding” baked in the style of a sponge cake, cleverly adheres to Tulip’s low-waste mission by using bread offcuts from another dish.

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