This moodily lit room channels drama, but it’s nothing compared to the heavy-duty grill overseen by an orderly army of kitchen staff. They’re handling cuts of all weights and ages, grass-fed, grain-fed, wagyu and otherwise. You might ease in with mousse-like duck liver parfait, and Sher wagyu carpaccio decorated with quail eggs and raisin-sized spots of black garlic. But it’s the expertly charred beef that you and the rest of Bendigo are here for.

Black Angus porterhouse, lovingly handled and cooked medium-rare, is excellent, only bettered by pepper and cognac sauce that brings a one-two punch of aromatic heat. The team knows how to grill more than just steaks.

Smoke-tinged lamb loin is brightened by small dabs of minty pea puree and a zucchini flower blooming with tomato and capsicum. In the glass, interesting varieties go beyond the usual red meat companions, reinforcing the care The Woodhouse takes from A-Z.

Good to know: The venue caters for groups and celebrations with private dining and a separate bar.

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