Bendigo’s culinary new kid resides in the city’s original bank, refurbished and opened last December. Terrae means earth and executive chef Tim Foster (also of Ballarat’s Babae) delivers on the promise, with a crowd-pleasing menu of produce from the restaurant’s farm outside Bendigo.

Slow-cooked pork belly with braised greens and lentils is generously portioned, as are pastas handmade with Goodness Flour from nearby Harcourt. Rosy duck breast comes with many accompaniments, from spiced sausage to pickled quince, but the best might be sangiovese from local label Gil Graves. A tiny quenelle of gelato sweetened by local Collins Honey is the star of a chocolate delice dessert.

The moody dining room with its historic lunette windows appeals to locals and tourists alike, and the latter rest their bones at the attached boutique Hotel Ernest. In its foundational years and dedicated to celebrating the region’s producers, Terrae is set to grow.

Good to know: It looks like a fine diner but expect rustic plating and warm service.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.