Soaring vaulted ceilings, stunning stained glass and towering granite columns: this exquisitely detailed neo-Gothic building makes for a knock-out of a restaurant. It’s like dining in a mini cathedral; the wooden pews and statues of saints switched out for luxurious caramel leather banquettes and a pair of red marble bars. Praise be – the food is worthy of the setting.

Tiny cubes of bluefin tuna and zingy orange hide beneath fried winter radish leaves. Perfectly pink Loddon Estate half-duck, dry-aged for two weeks, sits atop chargrilled sugarloaf cabbage and roasted grapes. A waiter will sauce two generous fillets of wood-grilled and delicately favoured New Zealand turbot with a buttery fish stock reduction.

Later, they may deliver lightly scorched brioche paired with preserved apricot and toffee-striped brie ice-cream. Faultless service and an exciting selection of French-leaning wines complete the immersion into magnificent grandeur.

Good to know: The eight-seat speakeasy at the back, La Rue, has a bar menu and happy hour cocktails.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.