Is there a more defining cafe in Melbourne than this charming Italian time capsule? The recipes and decor remain unchanged in 70 years, from the generous serves of saucy pastas to the ageing red leather barstools and heritage-listed neon sign.

There’s no menu (besides a faded wooden board overhead), no pricing, no liquor and no itemised bills – and it’s all part of the charm. Try snagging a spot in the kitchen (yes, in) or take a perch at the bar to watch white-shirted waitstaff slap down strong coffee, home-style cakes and icy watermelon granitas.

Orders land in front of diners in minutes: dependable, sugo-smothered plates of spaghetti Napoletana, pleated spinach and ricotta ravioli scattered with powdered parmesan, and surprisingly welcome buttered white bread. But it’s the old-school lasagne you’ll want – silky soft pasta sheets between bountiful bolognese made the same way since day one.

Best for: A speedy, no-fuss pitstop, especially pre- or post-show.

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