Benjamin Tremblet cut his teeth amid Europe’s exacting Michelin restaurant scene but his first outing as an owner treads a humbler path. Plying the traditions of his French-Italian upbringing, the menu delivers a beef bourguignon – its red wine sauce rich with lardons – that would make Julia Child ask for seconds.

But first there’s a taste of Provencal sunshine: tender marinated octopus going haute peasant in a tumble of romesco-spiked potato. Tuna crudo finds its groove with stracciatella and a sweet, citrussy mandarin curveball. Occasional fine-dining flourishes are smoothly integrated: a crisp parmesan lid must be cracked through to reach the cumulus-light gnocchi in a pool of cacio e pepe sauce below.

Tremblet’s own French family vineyard is represented on Norma’s simpatico wine list. Decked out with farmhouse tchotchkes and nostalgic artwork, it’s a restaurant to nourish body and soul.

Must-order dish: Beef bourguignon with red wine sauce, mushrooms and mashed potatoes.

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