A laden lazy susan spins at the centre of a family gathering. A waiter wheels a trolley ferrying signature pipa duck, roasted, gleaming and spreadeagled to resemble a Chinese lute. Nihao’s menu is immense: a 30-page document, covering China from north to south.

But follow the wise counsel of these highly attuned waiters and it’s impossible to go wrong. Spiced shredded chicken is a towering salad of poultry on the bone, the fat sitting sweet and cool under the skin. Winter melon is peeled, steamed and upturned to form a curved lid for wok-tossed chicken, duck, prawn and scallop.

Pipis are stir-fried with smoky, chewy, house-made XO sauce: order them with Chinese doughnuts for crunchy dipping. The quality across all dishes is striking, whether they’re simple or complex, humble or heroic. If it’s not perfect, it’s not hitting a table.

Must-order: Pipa roast duck (but you’ll have to pre-order).

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.