It doesn’t take long to realise that Maryam is special. Maybe it’s as soon as you walk in, the central door spilling straight into the dining room, where a long red rug draws the eye to a counter display stacked with baklava.

The tables are set with ornate Persian mats laden with silver trays of saffron-tinged rice, fragrant grilled meats scattered with sliced onion and sesame seeds, and baskets of flatbread. Kashke bademjan is a roasted eggplant dip highlighting kashk, a key Iranian fermented dairy product that has a yoghurty tang and the funk of blue cheese.

Tahchin – a layered, baked, saffron-scented rice and chicken dish – succeeds on the quality of its tahdig, a golden, crisp crust that forms on the base of the pan. This one is A-plus. Add it all together and you have a key address for sharing in Persian culture.

Good to know: There’s no alcohol, so go for a minty, yoghurty glass of ayran – it’s thick enough to stand a spoon in.

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